DO YOU NEED A HEATER IN A FRESHWATER FISH TANK?

Freshwater fish tanks need heat or not according to the type of fish being kept. Cold-water specimens don't require a heater, but not all freshwater fish can survive in cooler waters: some freshwater fish are tropical or sub-tropical. The tropical fish require heat to survive in temperate regions and the sub-tropical ones can live in cooler water as long as it never gets too cold.

Freshwater Tropical Fish

Tropical fish cannot survive in water that is below 74 degrees Fahrenheit. The angelfish, the Australian rainbowfish, the Bala shark, the banjo catfish, the black neon tetra and the black phantom tetra, the black shark, the bloodfin, the blue acara and the blue danio are all examples of freshwater tropical fish. Tropical fish will generally need a heated tank, at least during cooler weather.

Freshwater Non-Tropical Fish

Some fish are capable of withstanding a wide range of temperatures and are usually hardy in just about any region when kept indoors without an aquarium heater. Some, such as the common goldfish, can even be kept outdoors in temperate climates. Non-tropical fish include the clown loach, pufferfish, goldfish, koi and common guppy. The fancier guppies do better in temperate zones when kept in heated tanks, as they are more fragile than the ordinary feeder guppy.

Some Examples of Sub-Tropical Fish

Sub-tropical fish are tropical but can tolerate slightly lowered temperatures. They come from places such as Florida, Arizona, southern China and India's northern highlands. In these places it is warm in summer and cooler in winter, although temperatures low enough to produce snow and ice are rare. Some examples of this type of fish are the freshwater blennies, the hillstream loaches, dragon gobies, ruby barbs and white cloud mountain minnows.

A Few Rules for Freshwater Fish Keeping

When adding a heater to an established tank, use a thermometer to determine the temperature and set the heater a few degrees warmer. Every day, raise the temperature a degree. When you bring home new fish, float the bag containing the fish in the water for 20 minutes. This will equalize the water temperatures and prevent shock to the new fish. Treat protozoan infestations by raising the water above 86 degrees, doing it slowly to avoid harming the fish. Don't keep cold- and warm-water fish in the same tank, as this stresses both types.

CAN I PUT BOTH SAND & GRAVEL IN A FISH TANK?

Most aquarists like to display some sort of substrate in their aquariums. It is decorative and it anchors live plants at the bottom of the tank. It also provides nutrients to aquatic plant roots and gives digging fish places to hide as well. Substrates also work as filters in under-gravel filtration units, depending on the type of substrates used.

Sand in an Aquarium

Sand starts out as a great substrate but after a while, the water pressure packs it down tight, which causes "dead" spots in the sand, where air can't get down through the layers. This means that the nutrients from the water won't leach down into the sand to be taken up through the roots of live plants. It also means that fish and aquatic animals that like to burrow and hide will have trouble doing so.

Gravel in an Aquarium

As long as gravel stones aren't too large and heavy, they are perfect for weighing down the roots of live plants. Too heavy and they crush the delicate roots. Too small and they are easily sucked up when vacuuming gravel. The perfect size for gravel is around the size of a pea. This size also helps prevent bottom scavengers such as goldfish, from getting gravel stones caught in their throats while rummaging around on the bottom.

Putting Them Together

Sand and gravel can be used together in aquariums, but if the gravel is put down first it will end up on top as the sand gradually settles to the bottom. Sand can't be used with gravel when using under-gravel filters as the motor won't be able to suck the water through both the gravel and the hard-packed sand. This means that the wastes won't be filtered out and will just sit there on the substrate.

Gravel and Sand Landscaping

Some aquarists like to decoratively landscape their tanks using both gravel and sand, but they typically put the two types of substrate in different locations of the tank. This is fine as long as the sand isn't so fine that its surface constantly sends up dust into the water, which quickly clogs filters. Also, the sand should be raked every so often so it can't settle into a hard pack of mud on the bottom.

HOW TO REMOVE COPPER FROM A SALTWATER AQUARIUM

Some tank owners add copper to their aquarium to prevent the growth of bacteria and parasites, like ich. Copper in a saltwater aquarium may be tolerated by the fish, but is often detrimental to the other living creatures, like shrimp. Therefore, removing the excessive copper is essential for the health of your tank.

1

Perform a partial water change of 20 to 30 percent. This generally helps lower the copper level in a saltwater aquarium. The tricky part is making sure your tap water does not contain copper before adding it to the tank.

2

Turn on the cold water and let it flow out of your faucet for a couple of minutes before collecting it in a gallon-sized container. Allow it to set for at least 24 hours.

3

Test the water with your copper test kit. If copper is present, pour out the water and do not use it. Visit your local fish supply store and purchase bottled water cleaned with a reverse osmosis, or RO/DI, system.

4

Place an activated carbon block in the tank filter as directed by the manufacturer. Activated carbon, created from wood, coal and coconut shells, helps maintain the balance of waste, minerals and nutrients in a saltwater aquarium. The carbon absorbs copper and other harmful products from the salt water.

5

Add a deionizing unit, which exchanges the ions, to your tank. Anionic and cationic ions created by the unit lower copper levels in saltwater tanks. While the anionic unit removes chemical compounds such as ammonia, the cationic part purifies the water further by targeting copper and lead. The DI unit also uses a carbon block to help clean the water in your tank.

HOW TO REPLACE A SUBSTRATE IN A SALTWATER TANK

Replacing substrate in a saltwater tank is not recommended if the existing substrate isn’t causing a threat to aquatic life. It's discouraged because disrupting the substrate can stir bacteria, ammonia and waterborne compounds that are trapped in the substrate, disrupting the delicate balance of the tank. When substrate is no longer fit for a fish tank, though, it's time to swap it for new.

Select a New Substrate

Sand substrate is known to cause nutrient levels to rise over time, making it necessary to replace sand every two to five years. Sand substrates collect detritus -- which is why most saltwater tank enthusiasts regularly vacuum their sand beds. If you don’t have a vacuum, you may be interested in one of the other saltwater tank substrates available. They include aragonite, crushed coral, coral sand and crushed seashells. Aragonite is an especially good substrate option because it helps to regulate pH balances.

Clean the New Substrate

If your saltwater aquarium has a sand substrate, you may not want to clean it, as cleaning sand substrate can reduce the particle size in the sand bed. For all other substrates, fill a bucket no more than half full with the substrate. Then, fill the bucket with an equal amount of water. Mix the substrate into the water with your hands, allowing the water to become cloudy with any dust or dirt that may be on the substrate. Continue to fill the bucket with water, allowing the cloudy water to spill over the sides. When the water running over the sides is clear, the substrate is clean.

Changing the Substrate

Because a saltwater tank’s substrate contains a lot of nitrite and ammonia, it’s not recommended to completely remove all of the existing substrate in a single day. Instead, remove half the substrate one day and the other half in two weeks. An additional benefit is that you'll add new substrate to half the tank, reducing the amount of time the new substrate will need to settle. Begin by removing your fish. You can place them in a bowl or a bucket. Then, turn off your pumps. You can use your hands or a scoop to pull out the old substrate. Alternatively, if you want to ensure the tank stays clean during the process, you can use a hose to siphon out the old substrate. Place the old substrate in a bucket if you plan to keep it. Otherwise, throw it out.

Adding the New Substrate

You can lower gravel substrate into the tank using your hands or using the same scoop you used to remove the old substrate. Spread the gravel out once it's on the bottom. You can't lower sand substrate and other lightweight substrates to the bottom this way. Seal them in a freezer bag, and lower the sealed bag to the bottom of your tank. Then gently open it and pour the lightweight substrate along the bottom. Some particles will suspend in the water, but the method keeps things relatively settled.

Allow Everything to Settle

After you’ve added new substrate, the tank is likely going to be rather cloudy. Before reintroducing fish, allow all the substrate to settle and the water to clear. This can take as little as two hours or up to a full day. Speed the process by replacing 20 percent of the water. Even if you've replaced only half the tank's substrate, you can reintroduce your fish once the substrate has settled. Finally, turn on your pumps and add decor. Remember to remove the fish and accessories again in two weeks when replace the remaining substrate.

SWITCHING FROM A GRAVEL TO A SAND AQUARIUM

In a perfect world, you don't want to tear out your substrate and replace it with something else. In aquariums, bacteria in the substrate break down fish waste into less toxic chemicals. If you remove the old substrate, you're essentially starting the process of building bacteria from scratch, which can lead to ammonia or nitrite spikes. You can mitigate these risks, but the process is easier if you carefully plan your aquarium from the start.

Swapping

If you do decide to swap out the substrate, you want to do so gradually. To avoid mixing gravel and sand, you can put the gravel into mesh bags or pantyhose. Distribute the gravel to multiple bags. This makes it less likely you'll rip the bags and spill the gravel and allows you to remove the gravel gradually. When bagging, you can set the gravel bags in a bucket, but don't let them dry out. Once all of the gravel is bagged up, slowly pour your sand into place. Take care not to bury any fish or invertebrates. Then, quickly add the gravel bags back to the aquarium. The bacteria from the gravel will slowly colonize the sand bed. Remove the bags over the course of a month, and monitor your ammonia and nitrite levels daily.

Gravel Advantages

Keep in mind that gravel is ideal for most aquariums. Pea-sized gravel is just large enough to allow water movement through the gravel. This prevents the formation of anaerobic pockets, or dead zones without oxygen. Undesirable bacteria can thrive in these pockets, damaging water chemistry. This can happen with sand, too. Additionally, pea gravel is small enough that it doesn't create gaps where extra aquarium food can get stuck and rot, a problem with larger rocks. Pea gravel also works well with undergravel filters.

Advantages of Sand

Despite the advantages of gravel, sand makes a better substrate in some circumstances. Some fish like to bury themselves, and gravel can injure them. If you keep such species, they overcome the anaerobic issue by stirring the sediment with their burrowing. Additionally, some aquarium plants prefer sandy substrates. Additionally, some sand, like coral sand, can raise the pH and alkalinity of aquarium water, making it ideal for certain aquarium fish.

Starting with Sand

You should plan your aquarium carefully from the beginning to avoid the problems that come from swapping out your substrate. Additionally, you need to plan the depth of your substrate. The standard rule holds that 1 pound of aquarium gravel or sand per gallon will give you about an inch of substrate in the aquarium. This is more of a guideline than a rigid rule; tall aquariums need less substrate than wider tanks of the same volume to achieve the same depth. You want about an inch of substrate for most aquariums, though you will need more if you keep burrowing species or plants. The exact amount you will need for such aquariums will vary based on the specific species you decide to keep.

PROPER SUBSTRATE FOR A SALTWATER AQUARIUM

You have several different options for saltwater aquarium substrates, and each has its own pros and cons. Aquarium hobbyists broadly divide marine aquariums into fish-only aquariums and reef tanks; each has distinctive features you need to take into account when selecting a substrate. Remember that no one substrate is always the "right" choice.

Reactive Gravel for Calcium

Some substrates, like coral sand, argonite and other calcium-rich gravel, can influence water chemistry. Specifically, these substrates leach calcium and trace elements into aquarium water. In reef aquariums this improves water chemistry. Coral and other reef-tank invertebrates actively absorb calcium from the water, and need supplemental calcium to survive. Adding gravels like these can greatly benefit the water chemistry in such an aquarium, and provide a stopgap for declining calcium levels.

Gravel for Fish-Only Setups

In fish-only aquariums, you may want to use inert gravels. With no coral or calcium-consuming invertebrates, you don't need to alter the calcium level. Most pet shop aquarium gravels have an epoxy coating, rendering them chemically inert. These substrates have virtually no effect on the water chemistry, beyond providing a space for beneficial bacteria to grow. However, if you keep burrowing fish like blennies or jawfish, gravel can harm them when they try to burrow. If you have burrowing species, you should stick to sands. Silica-based sands, such as those available from hardware stores as "play sand," have no effect on water chemistry.

The Bare Tank Approach

In some aquariums you can skip substrate entirely. Bare tanks offer some advantages. For one, food can't get caught in the substrate and foul the water. This makes bare tanks useful for quarantine or breeding aquariums. In some aquariums, substrate is restricted to the sump filter, outside the main aquarium. This setup offers the benefit of the biological filtration and calcium that substrates offer, without the chance of debris getting stuck in the substrate and fouling the water.

Living Sand

You may also see live sand for sale. Live sand consists of sandy substrates colonized by beneficial bacteria. These bacteria eat fish waste, improving water quality. Aquariums depend on these bacteria for biological filtration, but it can take time for them to establish colonies. Buying live sand allows you to jump-start this process, having the colonies already up and running from the moment you add your substrate. Live sand can consist of calcium-based or inert sand and you can buy it either per-packaged or directly from aquariums, depending on the pet shop.

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HOW TO REPLACE A SUBSTRATE IN A SALTWATER TANK

Replacing substrate in a saltwater tank is not recommended if the existing substrate isn’t causing a threat to aquatic life. It's discouraged because disrupting the substrate can stir bacteria, ammonia and waterborne compounds that are trapped in the substrate, disrupting the delicate balance of the tank. When substrate is no longer fit for a fish tank, though, it's time to swap it for new.

Select a New Substrate
Sand substrate is known to cause nutrient levels to rise over time, making it necessary to replace sand every two to five years. Sand substrates collect detritus -- which is why most saltwater tank enthusiasts regularly vacuum their sand beds. If you don’t have a vacuum, you may be interested in one of the other saltwater tank substrates available. They include aragonite, crushed coral, coral sand and crushed seashells. Aragonite is an especially good substrate option because it helps to regulate pH balances.
Clean the New Substrate
If your saltwater aquarium has a sand substrate, you may not want to clean it, as cleaning sand substrate can reduce the particle size in the sand bed. For all other substrates, fill a bucket no more than half full with the substrate. Then, fill the bucket with an equal amount of water. Mix the substrate into the water with your hands, allowing the water to become cloudy with any dust or dirt that may be on the substrate. Continue to fill the bucket with water, allowing the cloudy water to spill over the sides. When the water running over the sides is clear, the substrate is clean.
Changing the Substrate
Because a saltwater tank’s substrate contains a lot of nitrite and ammonia, it’s not recommended to completely remove all of the existing substrate in a single day. Instead, remove half the substrate one day and the other half in two weeks. An additional benefit is that you'll add new substrate to half the tank, reducing the amount of time the new substrate will need to settle. Begin by removing your fish. You can place them in a bowl or a bucket. Then, turn off your pumps. You can use your hands or a scoop to pull out the old substrate. Alternatively, if you want to ensure the tank stays clean during the process, you can use a hose to siphon out the old substrate. Place the old substrate in a bucket if you plan to keep it. Otherwise, throw it out.
Adding the New Substrate
You can lower gravel substrate into the tank using your hands or using the same scoop you used to remove the old substrate. Spread the gravel out once it's on the bottom. You can't lower sand substrate and other lightweight substrates to the bottom this way. Seal them in a freezer bag, and lower the sealed bag to the bottom of your tank. Then gently open it and pour the lightweight substrate along the bottom. Some particles will suspend in the water, but the method keeps things relatively settled.
Allow Everything to Settle
After you’ve added new substrate, the tank is likely going to be rather cloudy. Before reintroducing fish, allow all the substrate to settle and the water to clear. This can take as little as two hours or up to a full day. Speed the process by replacing 20 percent of the water. Even if you've replaced only half the tank's substrate, you can reintroduce your fish once the substrate has settled. Finally, turn on your pumps and add decor. Remember to remove the fish and accessories again in two weeks when replace the remaining substrate.

THE SIGNS OF POOR SUBSTRATE IN A PLANTED AQUARIUM

Aquarium substrate is more than just some gravel and rocks that you toss at the bottom of fish tank to make it look pretty. The substance that covers the floor of your tank will affect virtually every other aspect of your tank, from the quality of the water to the health of your fish and plants.

Unhealthy Plants

If your substrate does not have sufficient depth and nutrients to provide for your plants, then your plants will fail to thrive in your aquarium. Aquarium plants that are planted in a poor quality substrate will not grow and most will ultimately die. Plants will also suffer if substrate features artificial coloring or chemicals that are toxic to the individual types of plants.

Dirty Discolored Water

Substrates, especially low quality substrates, tend to be dusty. If you do not take the time to wash your substrate properly, or if the substrate you have chosen is just really dusty, then the water in your aquarium is going to appear dingy and discolored. While a good aquarium filter can help clear out some of the debris, a truly low quality substrate is always going to make your water look less than perfectly clean. Your plants and fish will not benefit from being kept in water that isn't clean.

Water pH

Substrates that are high in calcium or other minerals will change your pH. Some types of plants and fish are more sensitive to pH changes than others, but if your plants and animals are sensitive to changes, you will have to work to correct changes in pH caused by your substrate. Research any substrate you consider placing in your tank to see what kind of changes it can cause in your aquarium.

Plants Are Floating

The roots on your aquatic plants mostly work to keep them anchored in the substrate. When substrate is poor quality, or just a bad choice for the specific type of plant, then the roots may not be able to get a good anchor into the substrate. If this happens, your plants may float around in your aquarium rather than staying where they belong.

BEST PLANTED AQUARIUM SUBSTRATE

Substrate is defined as the stuff you use as the foundation of your tank. The color, how it reacts with your water, and even the particle sizes have an impact on the health of your fish, the visual foundation of your tank, as well as the health of your other aquatic plants and creatures. I’ve explained aquarium substrate in detail in my previous post – Understanding Aquarium Substrate.

In this post however, I’m going to share some tips on choosing the best planted tank substrate and what are some of the important things you need to consider.

LET’S ADD SOME COLOR

Planted Tank Substrate Color

Substrate colors can range from natural ones to shocking neon colors to dark colors. The choice is entirely up to you, depending on what you prefer, what will compliment your fish, and the theme of your aquarium.  Just a quick reminder: whatever color you choose, it will have an effect on the color of your fish, so choose wisely. Lighter substrate will work wonders for darker colored fish and darker substrate will do some color enhancing for lighter colored fish.

WATER REACTION

Different fish require different water levels and temperatures. It is important to know that the substrate you add to your tank can lower or rise the pH levels of your tank. So before you make any decision, do some research about a particular substrate and read the label especially about its reaction with water.

PARTICLE SIZES THAT DO MATTER

Planted Aquarium Substrate Size

Substrate particles can come in a variety of sizes, from sand grains to large rocks. Take note of what kind of fish and plants you are interested in and do research on their behavior and natural living environment; choose which substrate would be the most appropriate according to your findings.

Another fun fact about substrate is that smaller particle substrate can clog together and lead to a lack of oxygen in your tank so you need to keep it filtered and use other methods to keep in oxygen. A larger substrate particle needs to be cleaned much more regularly as food and waste can get stuck between them and poison your fish.

Planted Tank Substrate Choices

The substrate you plant in your aquarium needs to be carefully selected. Think about what you need your tank to represent. Should your substrate be penetrable?  Will it provide enough nutrition for the living aquatic creatures to survive?  Will it provide enough support for your plants and other objects you would want to add to the tank?

Fluorite and laterite are clay based substrate and are not usually recommended for plants with roots that will break easily. Fluorite is high in iron, while laterite stores nutrients. There are many different types of aqua-soil available; they are a good substrate when it comes to filtering and the circulation of oxygen in a tank.

An eco-complete substrate such as the CaribSea Eco-Complete Substrate is also a great natural looking substrate to use in planted aquariums. It also lasts long and contains all the nutrients plants and your aquatic creatures require for thriving and growing.

If your option is to save money with substrate, you can always go with sand as it is a natural substrate and can also blend in well with other substrates or potting soil, but it may cause filtration problems. One aspect some people do not know is that you can add up to four levels of planted aquarium substrate if you want.

Let’s Do This!

Planted Aquarium Substrate

When we look at all the choices, clearly you have a lot of interesting options when it comes to the type of substrate you should use in your tank. The end decision is entirely up to you. Be mindful of the color, size, and even the type of fish and plants that will benefit from the type of substrate you chose.  Always put the fish and their health and safety first when buying substrate for your planted fish tank.

Substrate is not only your foundation for your planted fish tank, but also part of your own theme, aquatic creatures, and living plants. Choosing the correct substrate is very important for everything to be synchronized and harmonious with the rest of the tank.

BENEFITS OF HAVING FLOATING AQUARIUM PLANTS

Floating aquarium plants are an amazing feature to have in any tank. Floating plants are not attached to the bottom of the tank and they come in a lot of different shapes and sizes from very small to over a foot in diameter. Some of them have roots that hang in the water from the plants floating above them.

Floating Aquarium Plants

What are the benefits of floating aquarium plant?

With so many different types of species of floating aquatic plants, you can definitely find the one that fits your aquarium the best. However you might be wondering why would you have floating plants in your tank? Well, today I’m going to share some of the benefits of having such plants in your aquarium.

FLOATING AQUARIUM PLANTS PROVIDE SHADES

Providing the perfect shading for your other water plants and cover for your fish from the tank lights during the day is an important part of every aquarium. Creating a shade for the fish will really bring out their potential and their different colors. Just remember, if you choose to cover the whole surface of your tank it will possibly reduce the growth of your other plants, so it’s wise not to overdo it.

FLOATING AQUARIUM PLANTS PROVIDE AERATION

The aeration in a planted aquarium is usually regulated by live plants just as it would have been in the wild. Some of the floating aquarium plants regulate oxygen so that the fish can breathe.

Mosquito Fern - Floating Aquarium Plants

FILTRATION, PROTECTION, AND PREVENTION

Floating aquarium plants can be helpful as filters to remove all fish waste in the aquarium. The bacterium growing on the plant is used as a filter media and it can deal with biological and/or chemical filtration unbelievably well. Absorbing the chemicals that can be harmful to the fish can be a very daunting time for the floating aquarium plants so it’s always wise, but not mandatory, to have a backup filtration system at hand. These floating plants will be a great protection for your fish helping them to avoid diseases and finding a great place for fish to hide or play.

FLOATING PLANTS GIVES A WILDERNESS APPEARANCE TO YOUR TANK

Floating aquarium plants give you the feeling of a wilderness with some of them having roots that hang down freely. Having a natural looking environment will not only add to the attractiveness of the aquarium, but it will also allow your fish to feel right at home.

FLOATING PLANTS AS ALTERNATIVE FOOD

In a planted aquarium, the fish will never be underfed or be exposed to diseases because of irregular feeding. Usually, the only food source will be the food you feed them, but with floating aquarium plants your fish will have something else to eat or nibble on as they are full of nutrition and add to a well-balanced diet, just what every healthy little fish (and big ones, too!) need.

Normal Duckweed

To have or not to have

Floating plants are a wonderful addition to any tank. They have great benefits like being cost efficient, provide nutrition and oxygen, and they look great in any aquarium. Another great aspect of a floating aquarium plant is that it does not need constant maintenance, thus making your life a little easier in caring for your fish. They can flourish and grow into beautiful specimens worthy of watching and fitting in with your amazing underwater amazon or paradise, whichever you prefer. So it is definitely something worth having if you could fit it in your aquarium.

5 BEST LOW LIGHT AQUARIUM PLANTS

What are low light plants and what can they do in your aquarium? They are often referred to as the “easy plants” as they are very easy to maintain and they can thrive in low light aquariums.

Usually used as an underwater decoration and a hideaway for fish, these low light aquarium plants do not need extra lights, specific water regulations, or even CO2 to survive.

Low Light Aquarium Plants

Here are the five best low light plants and an explanation about how they work and what they need.

Java Moss
Anubias
Java Fern
Vallisneria
Sagittaria
JAVA MOSS
Low Light Aquarium Plants - Java Moss
This adaptable moss is capable of enduring difficult conditions and can attach itself to any object. Using string, staples, or pins, you can connect it to a cork or a foam background if you want.

It can grow in low light and will create a living wall for your aquarium where fish can play and eggs can hatch peacefully.

You need to trim your Java Moss occasionally though to prevent overgrowth and to keep your tank looking beautiful. To know more about Java Moss, you can read my previous post – Java Moss: What You Should Know?

ANUBIAS

Low Light Aquarium Plants - Anubias

An Anubias is a semi-aquatic flowering plant that can usually be found in streams, rivers, and in marshes and it originates from the vast African jungle streams.

They are extremely adaptable to a variety of shades and irregular rising and falling of water levels.

They do not only require low maintenance and low light, but they are great for a beginner’s aquarium. These types of plants will attach themselves to driftwood if you have it in your tank.

Always cut the leaves of the Anubias and remember to trim your plant for best growth result.

JAVA FERN

Low Light Aquarium Plants - Java Fern

There are six species of Java Fern that can be identified by their leaves; some has short leaves and others have wide leaves, or you may find some with long, thin leaves and others with very detailed, lacy, branching leaves.

In the wild, these aquatic ferns normally grow along the edges of rivers, waterfalls, and rocks.

Using a cotton thread, you can attach the fern to ornaments, rocks, and driftwood. They adapt very well to low light and do not require a lot of maintenance to keep them looking beautifully complex.

VALLISNERIA

Low Light Aquarium Plants - Vallisneria

A Vallisneria is a freshwater aquatic plant, which some people call eelgrass, and are used at the sides or back of a tank to frame the rest of the aquarium.

Vallisneria is an underwater plant that grows by runners and often forms a tall underwater meadow, shading out other plants. Leaves will grow in clusters from the roots.

They can be identified by their interesting leaves that have raised veins and round tips.

They are very adaptable and will grow under low light, but at a slower rate. As soon as they get “comfortable” with their surroundings, the female flowers will then grow to the surface on very long stalks.

A male flower, however, grows on shorter stalks and can become detached to float to the surface. They bear fruits that are a banana-like capsule with a lot of tiny seeds.

SAGITTARIA

Low Light Aquarium Plants - Dwarf Sagittaria

Sagittaria is an ascendant of about thirty species of aquatic plant, most of them know as duck potato, arrowhead, Katniss, Kuwait, Tule potato, Swan potato, and Wapato.

They are bright green, grass-like plants that can make a beautiful background, foreground, or mid-ground depending on the species.

Growing in rosettes, they will send off a runner that will generate a new plant. Their bright green clumps work well in color and give great form with other aquatic plants.

Conclusion

A great mix of these easy-to-grow low light plants will help a beginner aquarists develop a vast, long lasting, low cost low-light planted aquarium that will provide a calming effect and pleasure for years to come.

With all of this information, you can now enjoy and grow your own complex aquarium with a combination of simplicity of this inspiring underwater paradise without all of the hassles of constant maintenance that comes with high-tech planted tanks.

WHICH PLANTS ARE RIGHT FOR YOUR AQUARIUM?

Natural living plants are the best way to decorate your aquarium. Live plants will help the natural balance of the aquarium and fish will enjoy hiding in and swimming around plants.

For beginners, hardy plants are recommended because they are easy to maintain. Most freshwater aquarium plants don’t require much daylight, preventing your tank from having algae accumulation.

However, there is a vast selection of plants to choose from so which are the right ones for your tank?

The Most Popular Aquarium Plants

CARPET PLANTS

If you would like lush green carpet on the bottom of the tank, carpet plants are ideal. Water Wisteria, Java Moss, and Lilaeopsis are suitable species for covering the bottom of the aquarium.

Water Wisteria

Water Wisteria requires very low-maintenance. Optimum temperature is between 73-80° Fahrenheit (23-270 C) and medium lighting will be enough for this plant to grow.

Java Moss

Unlike Water Wisteria, Java Moss grows on rocks and pieces of wood.

Lilaeopsis looks like grass and grows quickly. This plant requires medium lighting with an optimal temperature between 75-84° Fahrenheit (24-290 C).

Comprehensive Guide to Java Moss

BACKGROUND PLANTS

Background plants are practical to cover your aquarium’s equipment while also providing enough hiding places for your fishes. The Amazon Sword, African Water Fern, Java Fern, Green Tiger Lotus, Anubias Nana, and Cryptocoryne Beckettii are suitable for mid-ground and background decoration.

Amazon Sword

Leaves of Amazon Sword look like swords; the plant is tall ands ideal for background covering. Medium lighting and temperatures between 71-80° Fahrenheit (22-270 C) are ideal for plant growth.

African Water Fern

The African Water Fern, though suitable for background and foreground, is a very hard plant to keep, as it requires very low lighting and a wide temperature range of 68-78° Fahrenheit (20-260 C).

Java Ferns

Java Ferns are suitable in any place of the aquarium. Similar to the Africa Water Fern, the Java Fern’s leaves look like swords. A temperature range between 68-78° Fahrenheit (20-260 C) and low-medium lighting is optimal for the Java Ferns.

Green Tiger Lotus

The Green Tiger Lotus has wide leaves and is short, allowing it to be placed toward the front of the tank. They thrive medium lighting and a temperature of 75° Fahrenheit (24° C).

Anubias Nana

The Anubias Nana, with its oval, dark green leaves, is easy to maintain. Moderate lighting helps with development and water temperatures of 71-80° Fahrenheit (22-270 C).

Cryptocoryne

Cryptocoryne is unique with its greenish-red leaves that adapt to every condition. Keep the water between 68-86° Fahrenheit (20-300 C) and low to high lighting for growth.

Planning a Planted Tank

Substrate, lighting, filters, fish, fertilizers, and plant maintenance are the main factors to have a healthy planted tank. The majority of the substrate, 85-90%, should be covered with plants that are fast growing; after the tank is productive, other plants can be added.

The filter should have adequate flow and good circulation for all the nutrition to reach every plant in the aquarium. The fish are the main focal point of the aquarium. Plants exist for their welfare and for an attractive decoration.

ALLOW TIME FOR PLANTS TO SETTLE

Allow one week for the plants to settle and grow after planting. Water parameters should be checked daily during this period. Herbivore fish can be added if the tank is heavily planted; however, fish should be added after three weeks from planting if all the water parameters are fine.

Fertilizer is essential

Fertilizers should include all the necessary minerals and vitamins for plants. Commercial fertilizers are available or you can opt for potassium nitrate or potassium mono phosphate dry fertilizers instead of commercial fertilizers. Fertilizers should be added once every two weeks.

Regular Maintenance

Regular pruning and gentle gravel vacuuming is necessary to provide good circulation and a clean tank. For low-maintenance plants, keep the lighting low to reduce algae accumulation.

Frequent water changes are not suitable for aquariums with high plant density. It is recommended to remove all the plants from the substrate and change 60-70% of the water for 3 to 6 months.

If there are few plants in the tank, weekly 25% water changes are suitable for plant maintenance.

Lastly, choose your freshwater aquarium plants wisely

When deciding on plants for your aquarium, also be sure to choose ones that are suitable for the fish in your tank and vice versa.  If you choose unsuitable fish and plants, your aquarium and its inhabitants will suffer. Choosing the proper plantings will lead to a beautiful, lush tanks.

The Importance of CO2 in the Planted Aquarium

Carbon dioxide (CO²) is one of the most important nutrients plants need in order to grow. Carbon is the one fundamental element that stands at the base of all life on Earth, underwater world included. Find out how the presence of CO2 in the planted aquarium influences the aquascaping process, what types of CO² systems you should go for your own aquascape, as well as useful tips and tricks on how to get the best potential out of your plants using CO².

Why is CO² So Important in Aquascaping?

CO² gets a bad write up in the press these days. We are always hearing about global warming and the destruction of the ozone layer, but it is also important to remember that plants need CO² to live. The foliage in your planted aquarium is no exception to this rule. Plants use² the process of photosynthesis to turn water, CO² and light into sugars and oxygen. This process coupled with respiration is the basis of life on earth. Without photosynthesis plants cannot produce the sugars which are used for growth and the development of new roots and leaves.

Successful aquascaping is all about healthy, full-grown plants. You may decide what plants you want to use in your aquascape, but CO² is determining how well these plants grow and develop in time.

There are 3 known most important resources we need to supply when dealing with a planted aquarium:

1. Light

2. CO²

3. Micro and Macro nutrients

Micro and Macro nutrients are usually supplied from fish waste and by dosing fertilizers, but what about light and CO2? How do these two natural resources relate to one another and how do we make sure we create the right balance between them?

The major reason for which CO² is so important for plants stands in the fact that it is involved in their process of photosynthesis – converting light into energy. A more broad definition would be that photosynthesis is a process used by plants to convert light energy (usually from the sun) into chemical energy that can later be used as a source of food. This food is represented by carbohydrate molecules (such as sugars), which are synthesized from CO² and water. Following this process, oxygen is released as a waste product (which is beneficial for fish and invertebrates).

Of course, in order for the photosynthesis to occur, the light intensity must reach a certain threshold. Not only that, but by providing more light, the photosynthesis will be much faster and so the plants will grow at a higher rate. You must be careful though because high levels of light but not enough CO² will promote algae blooms.

A certain level of CO² always exists in our aquariums because fish exhale it through the process of respiration, but that’s not enough. If we want to attain a certain level of lush plant growth we have to mechanically add CO2 to the planted aquarium.

It’s well known that plants prefer an environment with a certain concentration of dissolved CO², which is around 10-15ppm (part per million). It’s important to keep this value as constant as possible as a high amount of dissolved CO² could harm your fish and other invertebrates living in your aquarium (if you keep it below 30 ppm you’ll on the safe side).

A depletion of CO² can cause a variety of problems within a planted aquarium. The most notable is the stunted growth of plants and a paling in the leaves and stems. Continued low levels of CO² can cause the death of your plants in the tank. Plants may also start to get lime deposits on their leaves. Dissolved carbon dioxide becomes carbonic acid in water, so with depleted levels the pH of the tank will rise. This has serious consequences for any fish you are keeping as well as the plants. Both fish and plants will have an increased susceptibility to disease in increasingly high pH levels. Finally there is the fear of algal growth with increasingly low CO² levels, which in turn can cause a lot of other problems including ammonia poisoning.

co2-planted-aquarium-viktor-lantos

Photo credits: Viktor Lantos

Adding CO2 to Your Planted Aquarium

Since its beginning in the mid-90s, the practice of injecting CO2 in the planted aquarium has come a long way. Nowadays almost every aquarium store have a wide range of CO² equipment and more people are using it for their planted aquariums.

There are many ways to supplement the carbon dioxide in your tank. These broadly fall into two categories: gas or liquid injection, which are widely available from most online aquarium specialists such as Swell UK. Carbon in its gaseous form can be administered in three ways: yeast based, pressurized systems and aerosol (a cheaper CO² alternative which are only really useful for smaller tanks).

Yeast based (DIY CO² or BIO CO²) are the most inefficient and uncontrollable way of getting CO2 into the planted aquarium. CO² is the by-product of the fermentation process but only provides an inconsistent supply. You might be thinking DIY – it must be cheaper, it does the same thing as a pressurized system, but you only need sugar, yeast and water. It IS cheaper, but the process is a hassle, it can easily produce a commotion.

The recipe depends on the size of your aquarium, CO² is not diffused into the aquarium through a diffuser, but directly into the water (because of the lack of pressure), you have to setup the system all by yourself, all these are a couple of important factors that should make you think twice before trying it. That and the fact that the system needs to be changed once every few weeks.

But if you want to try it anyway, here’s a good video that shows you how to build such system:

Pressurized CO² systems are probably the best and easiest option to deliver CO2 in your planted aquarium, are reliable and consistent though they are unfortunately a lot more expensive. A system like this enables you to control the CO² output, increasing your chances to get the best out of your plants’ potential.

Components of a Pressurized CO² System

CO² cylinder – contains liquefied CO² under high pressure, comes in various sizes (from 0.5 litres up to 10 litres). Pretty expensive to buy but very cheap to refill. Be careful with these cylinders and make sure to always handle them with great care as this is not something to mess around with. CO² is a colorless and odorless gas that can be toxic in high concentrations.

co2-cylinder-planted-aquarium

Photo credits: DorryPets

Pressure regulator – allows you to regulate the pressure for a desired CO² output, has 2 gauge pressure indicators, one shows the pressure inside the cylinder and the other reads the output pressure.

co2-pressure-regulator-planted-aquarium

Needle valve – Has a sole purpose of regulating CO² flow precisely, is usually supplied with CO² regulators.

co2-needle-valve-planted-aquarium

Bubble counter – does exactly what it says, counts your CO² bubbles that go into your planted tank.

co2-bubble-counter-planted-aquarium

Photo credits: SeahorseAquariums

CO² diffusion system types

CO² glass diffuser with ceramic disc – this helps in breaking down the big bubbles of CO² into very fine tiny bubbles which are more efficiently spread into the planted aquarium water

co2-diffuser-planted-aquarium

Photo credits: CO2Art

CO² diffusion reactor – dissolves CO² gas in aquarium water without loss. When you use this you won’t need a separate bubble counter

co2-diffusion-reactor

CO² external inline reactor – very efficient reactor type which connects to your external filter. When the CO² bubbles reach the inside of the reactor, are broken down constantly until they´re completely dissolved into the water

co2-external-reactor-planted-aquarium

Solenoid valve – this piece of CO² equipment allows gas to flow, or not to flow through it. The most common way of using a solenoid valve is by plugging it into the timer which your lights use. The reason behind this is that plants don’t use CO² when there’s no light available, so shutting down the CO² supply during the night could prevent a high concentration buildup in the morning.

co2-solenoid-valve

pH controller (with pH electrode) – The ultimate CO² measurement equipment for your planted aquarium. This device electronically measures the pH value in the aquarium in a continuous manner (with the help of a pH electrode) and also controls the supply of CO² automatically via a CO² solenoid valve.

co2-ph-controller-planted-aquarium

Photo credits: Dennerle

There are some additional advantages to having a CO² pressurized system. As mentioned previously CO² forms carbonic acid once dissolved. Maintaining your CO² level helps you to maintain your pH level as well. Trace elements that your plants need to grow and develop are taken up more easily in the right pH conditions. In addition lime deposits on leaves are avoided.

There is no one device for measuring CO² levels in an aquarium. However due to the nature of the connection between pH, carbonate hardness and CO² levels it is possible to work out the CO² level in your aquarium using a chart such as this one:

co2chart

pH and kH values are easily measured and are readily available from most aquatics companies. This is not the most accurate way of measuring CO² levels as there are other factors that can influence the results such as phosphates and nitrates. A second way to measure CO² levels is to use a drop checker. This has the advantage of being able to be measured at all times. Additionally phosphate has no effect on the readings.

Carbon dioxide in liquid form is like a fertilizer and can be administered directly into the tank. They are all basically very similar and contain the same active ingredients. In comparison with gas carbon injectors, liquids are not as efficient so plant growth takes much longer. However they are much cheaper and again are really good for smaller aquariums. They can also have a positive effect on depleting and preventing algal growth.

Whichever CO² system you choose to use for your planted aquarium, remember that your plants have other needs too, like a proper amount of light, an efficient fertilization method, a good aquarium water circulation and a suitable choice of aquarium substrate. We’ll talk about these aspects in some of our future posts, so stay tuned.

A Guide to Keeping and Growing Aquatic Moss

There are so many ways to use aquatic moss in your aquarium and mosses should definitely be an area that you have really planned for in your aquascape design. Mosses spread, so if you are looking for a floor or featuring covering plant, then considering the use of an aquatic moss is a great start. Mosses can help to soften edges of other aquarium features and enhance the natural feel of your design. They come in all manner of shapes, colors, and growth habits and can be used to create green lawns, or to grow over rocks, driftwood, or even to grow towards the water level! Aquatic mosses are generally very easy to propagate so are suitable for aquascapers of any experience level.

Why Grow Aquatic Moss?

Aquatic mosses are generally chosen for their aesthetic qualities, but they don’t just look great; they can also contribute to improved water quality. As photosynthesizing plants, aquatic mosses absorb nutrients in your aquarium water, including nitrates, from the water column. Where other plants require high light levels to accomplish this, or a regular fertilizing regime, aquatic mosses are effective nitrate removers without high light levels or fertilizer.

Using Aquatic Moss in Your Planted Aquarium

Temperature

One of the most important areas to remember when propagating aquatic moss in your planted aquarium is that mosses prefer moderately cool water temperatures. The best way to encourage mosses in your aquarium to look great and to grow quickly is to keep them cool. Some aquatic mosses, however, are known to be able to adapt to slightly higher temperatures. There are some mosses that, with no apparent harm to themselves, will grow in a whole range of temperatures.

Surfaces

Give the rhizoids (slender root-like filaments that are used for attachment and nourishment) of mosses the opportunity to attach to a rough surface, and they quickly will! If you want to, and or have the time, many aquatic mosses are quite capable of self-attaching. You simply ‘show’ the moss a growing surface, place them together in your aquarium, then the fronds will, sooner or later, attach themselves to the growing surface. If you don’t want to wait for this to happen, then there are other simple and effective ways to achieve the same effect.

One of the best ways is to spread the aquatic moss over the surface you wish to cover, and then use fishing line or black thread to attach it. These methods of attachment will be visible to begin with, but the aquatic moss will grow over them very quickly. Some experts in this field recommend using 100% cotton thread as it will, ultimately, dissolve and disappear. If you are using any method of attachment, please do consider the other life forms in your aquariums. Fish especially may get stuck or injure themselves on loosely tied threads, and may attempt to eat loose pieces once the knots have dissolved. Keep an eye on your aquarium and make any adjustments when they need to be made.

Pruning and Lighting

In general, aquatic mosses will grow in most lighting situations. The hardier mosses can actually thrive in lower ambient lights. Lighting is an especially important issue to consider when it comes to aquatic moss growth. If you have chosen different types of moss for your aquascape, then make sure you know and understand how each of these mosses grow. If one aquatic moss grows much more vigorously than the others, the new growth in the more vigorous moss can and will overshadow the slower growing mosses, thus preventing them from receiving light. This will mean that the slower growing mosses will die if you do not spot and rectify this occurrence very quickly. The simplest way to deal with this, if you want to use aquatic mosses that have different growing patterns, is to prune the faster growing aquatic moss before it becomes an issue, or move clumps of it to different parts of the aquarium. It is good practice to prune mosses regularly as this will help to prevent the mosses becoming stringy.

Top 3 Aquatic Mosses

Taxiphyllum barbieri – Java Moss

aquatic moss java moss

The most common aquatic moss grown in an aquarium is the Java Moss, Taxiphyllum barbieri. There are plenty of reasons for this. Using Java moss creates a stunning natural aquascape and can be tied on to all manner of other features in your aquarium; rocks, driftwood and other plants – the aquatic moss will be quite happy be attached to them all. This aquatic moss is self-attaching too, so your aquascape doesn’t need any artificial ties if you have the time for it to make the attachment. The other main reason why the Java Moss is so loved by aquascapers is that it is (almost!) impossible to kill. It will happily grow in aquariums with high lighting levels to aquariums with solely ambient light.

Taxiphyllum sp. “Peacock” – Peacock Moss

aquatic moss peacock moss

© www.aquamoss.net

This type of aquatic moss is a fern-like plant. It is creeping and small with flattened branches. These branches have fronds that spread out and are conspicuous because of their iridescent blue-green color. Peacock moss tends to prefer growing in cooler waters of around 25 degrees Celsius. At higher temperatures, the peacock-shaped fronds that it gets its name from are lost. Aquascapers turn to Peacock Moss when they are looking for an aquatic moss that will help them to achieve a ‘gentle’ look for their aquascape.

Leptodictyum riparium – Stringy Moss

aquatic moss stringy moss

Aquascapers are drawn to the Stringy Moss, as it is a very variable moss and can take many different forms when it is grown submersed. In the wild it is found in the northern hemispheres. Areas from Europe to China to North America all are known to be places where this moss thrives. The Stringy Moss grows more slowly than other mosses, but is straightforward to grow and cultivate. One of the main reasons that Stringy Moss is loved by aquascapers is for the free-growing and slightly wild looking stems that grow upwards in a stringy style. The effect of growing the Stringy Moss in your aquarium can look visually stunning with its fine stems and leaves. This is a great moss to use if you are looking to create an illusion of movement or flow in your aquarium.

When you are designing your aquascape, think about the areas that will be enhanced by the use of aquatic moss. Consider the different types of moss and their growing patterns. Reflect on the aesthetics you are looking to achieve in your completed aquascape. With all of these in place, your aquascape will shine!

EHEIM Classic External Canister Filter Review

If you are looking for a tried and tested, reliable filter, then you will not go far wrong by choosing an EHEIM Classic Filter.

What makes an EHEIM filter so unique?

Value for money

Quality components, carefully matched

Robust and durable

Very quiet running

Low-energy consumption

There are five models to choose from, meaning that there are filters available for aquariums up to 1500 litres

eheim-external-filters-comparison

Technical information for the EHEIM Classic 350 External Canister Filter:

The pump’s output is 620 litres per hour

The delivery head is 1.8 m/Ws

The volume of the canister is 4.8 litres

The filter’s volume is 4 litres

Power consumption of the filter is only 15W

Dimensions of the canister 185×370 mm

Hose size: suction side 12/16 mm, pressure side 12/16 mm

Suitable for fresh and marine water

Main characteristics

You may feel a little swamped when faced with the options that are available on the market today when you are selecting an external canister filter for your aquarium. What you need to focus on is: what sets one filter apart from the others available on the market. EHEIM filters are built to last. The sealing ring in the pump head is made of long-lasting and flexible silicon. This design makes for easy and safe replacement after cleaning; the filter that cleans, needs to be cleaned too! Some filters have little fiddly areas that take a lot of time and effort to get properly clean, not with this Classic Filter.

Make sure the ease of cleaning is on your list of priorities! There is a wide range of accessories that are available with this filter; EHEIM external canister filters allow you to make personal choices about your planted aquarium’s setup. Choose between filter pads and loose filter media, choose your accessories and make the setup your own. Most places that you can buy the Classic EHEIM filter from will include an inlet pipe, hose, spray bar, and installation accessories as standard in the box. When you are choosing between brands, make sure you remember what a great deal you are getting with the EHEIM; the selection of versatile accessories are worth a lot of money!

GET YOUR EHEIM CLASSIC 350 EXTERNAL FILTER

Performance

EHEIM Classic External Canister Filters are available for aquariums sized up to 350 litres and have a pump output of 620 litres per hour. Whatever you are keeping in your aquarium (even turtles!) there is an EHEIM Classic to suit your needs. At a little over 37cm, this powerful filter’s canister holds 4.8 litres of water. This filter is powerful and compact!

Ease of use

When it comes to choosing an external filter for its ease of use, you won’t find many so easy to run and maintain as the EHEIM Classic External Canister filter! The filter is easy to dismantle and clean with top quality silicon sealing rings for easy and safe access to the pump and ease of closing after cleaning. This filter is really easy to put back together! Choose EHEIM charcoal pads for the very simple maintenance of your filter.

All EHEIM Classic Filters are now designed with quick disconnect valves; the quality of their design is amazing, and the EHEIM designers certainly like to make improvements continually – even with filters that started as quality designs! One of the really great design features, as far as cleaning and maintaining are concerned, is that these EHEIM Classic External Canister Filters need very little care! Set them up, let the bubbles run through, then they are as quiet as you can find on the market and very powerful.

As long as the canister is below water level, you have the choice whether you situate it beside or below your aquarium, just think about the vacuum effect that is required for constant filtration. Whatever your aquarium setup, there are accessories available to customize this filter to meet your requirements. The Classic Filter is also an excellent choice if you are thinking of upgrading your aquarium in the future; just choose different accessories!

Whatever your aquarium setup and whatever your plans, you really can’t go wrong with the purchase of an EHEIM Classic External Canister Filter.

Made from the best materials

Designed with precise engineering

EHEIM has the experience and know what they are doing

Reliable performing filter

Long service life

Filter and accessories are tailored to fit each other

German precision!

Aquascaping Inspiration: Tips and Tricks

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

Have you ever wondered where to look for aquascaping inspiration? It’s a true fact that aquascaping is a little more complicated than just throwing some aquarium plants and hardscape materials into water. Having healthy plants and good-looking rocks and pieces of wood is just not enough. It takes a good eye to really master a great aquascaping arrangement. We take a look at some tips and tricks to help inspire your next aquascape.

Aquascaping inspiration is something that can be hard to come by when all you have is an empty tank, even when you have lots of experience the prospect of creating something from nothing can be a very daunting task.

There are decisions to be made from the outset about whether you are going to hardscape and where on earth you can get aquascaping inspiration from so here are some tips and tricks in order to help you create something beautiful in any planted aquarium.

Aquascaping Inspiration: The Natural World

One of the best places to look for aquascaping inspiration is in the natural world itself, try mountains, hills, beaches and other natural open spaces. Whether this is in the form of going out into your local countryside to see what you can find to take inspiration from or browsing photographs that other people have taken of breath-taking views that you might want to recreate.

Aquascaping inspiration doesn’t have to come from looking at underwater worlds either, some of the most beautiful aquascapes are models of picturesque views like a single tree on a hillside, or a cloud floating over a valley that’s recreated using floating moss. Even recreating cliffs that surround a beach with smaller rocks mixed in with the sand are simple and striking.

You can even take aquascaping inspiration from the natural world beneath your feet and look at recreating some stunning cavern aquascapes using light through gaps in stone, in order to highlight the features that you want the eye to be drawn to and the colour and texture of the plants you use mixed in with smaller rocks to perfectly recreate a lost world to be discovered.

aquascaping inspiration mountains

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

© Brandon Read Photography

© Brandon Read Photography

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

Aquascaping Nature Inspiration

aquascaping-inspiration-forest

Published Forms of Aquascaping Inspiration

If having the idea of different popular styles of aquascaping hasn’t provided you with any inspiration then there are always the options of turning to books in order to look at the different styles that other people have created. There are lots of different books that have been published and can help you not only provide with some aquascaping inspiration but also help you to discover new plants to add to your existing planted aquarium.

One of the most popular authors and a pioneers in this field is Takashi Amano. Takashi has been publishing books since 1992 in the field and has come up with some of the most innovative and inspirational designs that have led to many other aquascapers pushing boundaries they had never imagined they could. Building large scale aquascapes, Takashi Amano brings passion and artistic flair with a photographer’s eye to the creation of aquascapes. Though many of his books are lacking in technical step-by-step instructions and detailed botany information, they are a superb form of aquascaping inspiration filled with his personal insight and a genuine love for nature.

He also hosted a series of short documentary films based around creating his giant Nature Aquarium that can be viewed on YouTube.

takashi amano aquascaping inspiration

Aquascaping Inspiration from Aquascaping Trend-Setters

Like many other hobby fields there are different forms of aquascaping that become very popular at different times and among different groups of people due to the influence of prominent members of the community or trendsetters.

Takashi Amano was one of the key trendsetters in aquascaping, but he is not the only one. There are many trendsetters in different countries that put their own passions for life and nature into the creation of some of the most stunning aquascapes you will ever see. In the UK there is George Farmer who took aquascaping as a full-time job, Diego Marinelli from Italy, from Germany we have Jurijs Jutjajevs and Oliver Knott, Viktor Lantos from Hungary, Ionut Godea from Romania and many others.

In China Dave Chow has brought together hardscape and plants to create some of the most striking natural displays that include Lofty Spirit and Road of Samsara.

aquascaping inspiration dave chow

Aquascaping Inspiration: Contest Entries and Social Media

Since the year 2000, the Aquatic Gardeners Association has held an international aquascaping contest in which participants submit photos of their aquascaping creations online to be judged in one of 9 different categories.

These categories are: Aquatic Garden smaller than 28l, Aquatic Garden 28l to 60l, Aquatic Garden 60l to 120l, Aquatic Garden 120l to 200l, Aquatic Garden 200l to 320l, Aquatic Garden larger than 320l, Biotope Aquascape; Paludarium and The Dutch Aquarium.

Each of the photographic entries are displayed online for each year allowing you to see what other people have done and provide you with aquascaping inspiration for your next project.

aquascaping inspiration contest

The last step would be to turn to social media for aquascaping inspiration. Just head to Facebook and search for aquascaping and will get in an instant lots of pages and groups created with the purpose to showcase the newest and coolest aquascapes out here.

As you can see, getting aquascaping inspiration is not that hard, it’s just a matter of taking action. Go out there, explore new natural environments, get a book or two, learn who are the current aquascaping trendsetters, search online and in the end you’ll have an enormous amount of information which you can put to use for your next aquascape.

The Nature Aquarium Style

nature-aquarium-3

The Nature Aquarium is one of the two major styles dominating the world of aquascaping. The basic Nature style aesthetic concepts have been introduced by Japanese aquarist Takashi Amano back in the 1990’s and have become widely popular over the years, influencing the entire future of aquascape design. The style itself has at its origins the naturally growing scenery inspired by the Japanese gardening concept Wabi Sabi.

Characteristics of the Nature Aquarium

This style is characterized by attention to the alignment and grouping of rocks, driftwood and aquatic plants in order to create an underwater miniature representation of particular terrestrial landscapes. In the majority of cases, the Nature Aquarium aquascapes depict scaled-down versions of rainforests, mountains, hillsides or valleys. Elements of Japanese gardening are generally used when building a Nature aquarium, such as the implementation of the Golden ratio.

Even though the general appearance of the Nature style aquascape makes it seem unplanned, quite random and without design, the truth is accomplishing this type of layout requires a lot of intricate work. Stones and driftwood are organized carefully alongside asymmetrical arrangements of groups of relatively few species of plants in order to create natural ambience and flow. Nature aquarium aquascapes usually have only one focal point positioned according to the Golden Rule.

Nature Aquarium

Nature Aquarium Basic Composition Design

It’s not very hard to accomplish an aesthetically pleasing Nature style composition for your aquarium. All you need to do is invest in some proper planting substrate and some quality hardscape materials like branched out pieces of wood and some unique looking rocks as well as some carefully selected plants.

In what layout construction is regarded, there are three types of Nature Aquarium styles:

1. The concave shape

The positioning and height of the plants decreases to some central low point so that the final display offers the impression of open space in the middle.

Nature Aquarium

2. The convex shaped style

This layout is often referred at as an ‘island’ because plants are trimmed lower on either side and higher in the middle, which is very nice aesthetically and can be obtained with rocks to make a mountain looking scape.

Nature Aquarium

3. The triangle scape

This type of layout creates very balanced visuals; the height of the plants slopes gradually from high on one side of the aquarium to low on the other side.

Nature Aquarium

Recommended Plants for the Nature Style Aquascape

The choice of aquatic plants is very important in the Nature Aquarium style. As opposed to the Dutch style, the Nature style aquascape allows the use of multiple plants of the same species in the same container. Usually, they are selected according to their similarity to the plants found in outdoor environment.

Light loving stem plants are often used in the Nature Aquarium aquascape because they grow quickly and vigorously. Some of these include Riccia, Glossostigma elatinoides, Echinodorus tenellus, Staurogyne repens and hair grass (Eleocharis parvula). Apart from these, shade loving plants like ferns, mosses and the various Cryotocoryne species are often planted in the shade of driftwood and rocks.

Recommended Fish for the Nature Aquarium

The selection of fish for the Nature Aquarium style aquascape is as important as the selection of the aquatic plants. Choose fish which compliment the tank’s layout. Take into consideration aspects regarding their behavior and way of living, as well as their size, shape and color. If the fish are too large, they can pull out the plants and hardscape; if the fish like to eat aquatic plants, that is definitely not desirable.

The following fish are quite commonly seen in the Nature Aquarium: Red neon tetra, Rummy nose tetra, Harlequin tetra, Black neon tetra.

Nature Aquarium - Red neon tetra

Equipment

When it comes to aquascaping equipment, the particularity with the Nature aquarium tanks is that they are high-tech, therefore they require special plants and utensils necessary for the implementation of a regular fertilizing and pruning schedule. Also, due to the heavy planting, a powerful lighting system as well as a CO2 system become compulsory. Other usual purchases include external filters, heaters and test kits.

Maintenance Difficulties of the Nature Aquarium Style Aquascape

The majority of pains of the Nature Aquarium aquascaping development are connected to the plant growing process and to their maintenance. It’s a long way to accomplishing a balanced, aesthetically pleasing Nature Aquarium tank. Plants grow fast and densely so they need constant trimming in order to make the aquascape look beautiful and more natural with the passage of time. Special attention must be given to the choice of planting substrate. Proper substrate should contain a sufficient amount of nutrients, which enable the growth of healthy plants.

Another common issue often encountered with the Nature Aquarium is algae control. Algae often become a problem soon after the layout is set up and the water quality is unstable. So make sure you take measures as soon as you notice there might be a complication of this sort.

The Jungle Style Aquarium

The Jungle Style Aquarium

Possibly the easiest aquascaping type to replicate, the Jungle style aquarium represents a real challenge to the inexperienced aquarist. A fun challenge, nonetheless. Usually separated from the Dutch and Nature style, the Jungle aquascape incorporates some of the characteristics of them both, however it displays a very different appearance from all other styles.

The Jungle Style Aquarium Characteristics

Just as the name of the style says it, the Jungle style aquarium depicts the wild, uncontrolled appearance of an untamed setting. This type of aquarium does not require everyday plant trimming. The plants are actually left to assume a natural look rather than a contrived one. Over time, vegetation becomes very dense, and once the tank achieves a certain level of balance, less and less maintenance is needed.

The Jungle style aquarium has little or no visible hardscape materials as well as limited open space. Most of the times it is populated by tall, large-leaved plants and a great variety of fish. No, the Jungle style does not follow the comfortable, clean lines and fine texture of nature aquariums.

Jungle Style Aquarium

Layout and Design Techniques for the Jungle Style Aquarium

Beginner aquarists always ask themselves the same question with regards to the Jungle scape: how can you obtain an aesthetically pleasing aquascape in this chaos? The answer is it’s a matter of personal taste. There is no specific rule on how exactly you should plant your vegetation; you should just have the necessary knowledge regarding the growth of plants and their general maintenance.

There really are no rights or wrongs when it comes to the Jungle style aquarium design. It’s far more important to have fun and go with what you like. Your eye will tell you if it’s too much or too little, trust your guts! Chaos can be fabulous!

The real jungle canopy effect is ensured by proper choice of substrate and plants. A darker type of substrate, combined with tall plants which grow up to the surface, and floating plants which block light offer a very dappled effect.

The Jungle aquascape style may not be the most complex aquascaping design out there, but it can definitely become very appealing over time, not to mention functional. Many species of fish prefer the Jungle dense vegetation scape.

Jungle Style Aquarium

Jungle Style Aquarium Recommended Plants

As mentioned before, plants have a lot of freedom in the Jungle style aquarium. The bigger, bolder and coarser the leaf shapes the better! They are the ones responsible for the final untamed appearance of the tank.

There is a real competition for light and territory in the Jungle scape aquarium. Plants strive to get the best spot, growing into each other’s space creating intricate overshadowing effects. There should really be no restraints to the number of aquatic plants species you can use in such a scape. Dense vegetation is beneficial for the fish because they offer them a sense of security, high levels of oxygen and nutrient removal rates. Plant heavily! The more species of plants you have in your aquarium, the faster the tank will stabilize.

Here are a couple of suggested plants for the Jungle style aquascape: Microsorum pteropus, Bolbitis heudelotii, Vallasneria americana gingantea, Crinum natans, Crinum calimistratum, Aponogeton boevinianus, Aponogeton crispus ‘Red’, Echinodorus ‘Ozelot’, Echinodorus ‘Rubin’, Echinodorus quadricostatus, Sagittaria subulata, Hygrophila pinnatifida, Anubias barteria var. barteri, Limnobium laevigatum.

Jungle Style Aquarium

Recommended Fish in the Jungle Style Aquarium

The following species of fish are recommended for the Jungle style aquarium: Thayeria boehlkei, Paracheirodon innesi, Coryodoras aeneus, Hyphessobrycon colombianus, Cleithacara maronii, Red-tailed black shark (Epalzeorhynchos bicolor)

Equipment

Apart from the usual aquascaping equipment, here are some specific requirements for the Jungle style aquarium:

HO T5 fluorescent lamps, necessary for ensuring high light levels for the plants;

PAR meter to measure the light;

Large or multiple filters;

inline heater and CO² diffuser.

Maintenance and Difficulties of the Jungle Style Aquarium

Jungle aquarium maintenance consists mainly of a 50% water change on a weekly basis as well as pruning, but the latter only when necessary.

Attention must be paid to creating a good balance of elements to ensure high growing levels. Such elements include: high levels of light, nutrient-rich substrate, first rate liquid fertilizers, pressurized CO² injection and good water filters.

Like in the case of all types of aquariums, algae may appear. While small amounts of algae are normal and even desirable, if its presence gets out of control, it can create problems.